Years ago, it was papal processions that made their way along the Via
del Governo. The Palazzo of the same name was the seat of papal government
in the 17th and 18th centuries. Nowadays its attractive 15th and 16th century
houses remain, and this working class area is seeing new arrivals- fashionable
restaurantes (Baffetto, by far the best pizzeria in Rome), wine bars and
various trendy shops (L`Una e l`altra, Arsenale) all of which are revitalising
the area, and making it well worth a visit.
Palazzo Gaddi
Enter at no. 42 and admire the courtyard of Aplazzo Gaddi, former residence
of the wealthy banker, Chigi, who commissioned the best artists of the
16th century for its decoration. At no. 43, a bakerty makes a crisp thin-crust
pizza that is taken out of the oven at exactly 11am every day, an appointment
not to be missed!
Piazza dellÒrologio
After undergoing lenghty restoration, Borromini`s Clock Tower (17th century)
is at last resplendent. Once again it sports the iron bell support, from
which ring out the hours regulating the daily life of the convent next
door dedicated to the order of the Filippini. A mosaic of the Madonna
adorns the side facing the street.
Via dei Coronari
This is the street of bric-a-brac and antique dealers. On weekends in May,
they stay open until late. Many of the craftsmen repair furniture and
other valuable items and can produce beautiful copies of old artworks.
Behind the Palazzo Lancelloti, which has kept its shutters closed in
protest at the reduction of papal authority over secular life, is Il
Telaio, which mends and sells household linen.
In Folio
This is the perfect place to find design gifts: plates by Fornassetti decorated
with enigmatic female faces, a toothbrush made from wild boar hair by
Acca-Kappa, the parmesan knife designed by Ado Rossi, stain-proof ties,
and Aurora 88, the pen invented in 1947 by Nizzoli. It is a good place
to buy unusual presents to take home.
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